Lourdes: A Trip of Solemn Promise and Divine Future (1)

Disclaimer: This journal is based on my trip in 2019 before Covid pandemic. For current situation and regulation, please refer to the official website/social media.

Three years ago, I made a solemn promise to Mother Mary: if I were admitted into a university in Europe, I would pay a pilgrimage to Lourdes. Why Lourdes? Since the first time I submitted myself to study the Catholicism, I didn't directly commence by digging into the Bible or the life of Jesus, but rather, through Mary. She took me along the journey, so much so that the first thing I learned to pray was the rosary, and since, it has been my greatest personal devotion. That string of beads, looking so fragile and insignificant has brought me towards the Truth. And that's how everything started, per Mariam ad Jesum, through Mary towards Jesus. Thus, I felt so indebted to the Holy Mother and the rosary, and where else is the most appropriate pilgrimage destination dedicated to the two great gifts in the Catholic faith but Lourdes.

I tried to search for the Dutch pilgrimage tours to the Lourdes, but most of them offered only Dutch-speaking, none in English. I also considered taking the one arranged by KKI Belanda-Belgia (Indonesian Catholic Community), but I had to retrieve due to its schedule and high budget. After being adjourned for more than a year, I finally cleared out all my schedule in the middle of 2019, taking escape from the thesis hectic and all worldly bustle and arranged the itinerary to Lourdes and other pilgrimage destinations in France.

I finally departed on 21 May 2019 from Amsterdam to Lourdes with the train. Apart from the cheaper price than the airplane, I deliberately chose the longest route yet unwinding, no need to rushly searching the take off gate, passing through layers of security clearance in the airport, and had to deal with uncomfortable cheap flight facilities. After all, Lourdes itself is a little town near the border of France-Spain which the airport does not accomidate many flight route (in fact, the flight from Amsterdam to Lourdes requires a transit at Dublin). My other consideration was to prepare wholefully my heart and soul and meditate throughout the journey towards Lourdes, it's nevertheless a pilgrimage, isn't it? No rush, more contemplation.

From Amsterdam, I took Thalys towards Paris Gare du Nord (13.15 - 16.38), then transferred using the metro to Paris Gare Montparnasse to continue the journey using SNCF, the France interprovincial train, and arrived at Lourdes station (17.52 - 22.41). In total, the whole journey took about 9.5 hours long. Only a few head arrived at the station, more of them were families and backpackers with Jacob shell hanging on the side of the carrier, the sign of the pilgrims. The town was so tranquil, so much so that you could hear your own steps echoing through the empty street. I felt so hungry. Early, I only had a piece sandwich for lunch and nothing for dinner. I was expecting a warm meal when I arrived, but I miscalculated, the lodging did not provide any; it was so late after all. Well, another pilgrim's suffering to offer, I guess.

My lodging was located at the west of the city in the cluster of hotels and hostels with various price range. To get to the hotel, I had to pass through the sanctuary complex. So, I though, why not stopping there for a second to make a short prayer, thanking for the divine providence that brought me to this blessed place and fulfill my promise to the Lady.

At the foot of the cross, I knelt and kissed the earth of Lourdes, the land of the Motherly miracle. You've called me, and here I am. The soil is still warm from the summer heat, but nothing can beat down the desire of faith burning in my soul. Filled with uncontained emotion, I walked to the Grotto at the side of the complex. The very first moment I saw the statue of the Blessed Virgin illuminated at the upper part of the cave, I shed tears. I couldn't help but to throw three Hail Marys, then stood there in complete silence.

***

The hotel I stayed in, Hotel Luxembourg is not the best accomodation in Lourdes, in fact, it is very modest but quite comfy. Like the typical aged hotel, the acoustic is pretty bad; an extra surprise for the night, the sound of couple making love from the next room penetrated through the wall to my cell. Well, while covering my ears from the unanciticipated disturbances, I hope they were anticipating for a pragnancy miracle (finger-crossed).

With extreme excitement, I woke up at 7 the next morning, took a quick shower then walked to the nearest boulangerie, finding remedy for my crumbling stomach with a croissant and a pain-au-chocolat (or in the south, they call it chocolatine). Hail Mary! Nothing beats the fragrance of freshly baked pastry and its melting filling! As I walked towards the basilica complex, the cold morning air swirled softly on my skin. It was quite chilly for summer, but here we stood at the foot of mountainous (and magical!) Pyrenees, so remember to wear a nice comfy sweater. The locals began setting up their stores, mostly religious articles and restaurant, while the pilgrims walked slowly alone or in groups towards the site.

My priority schedule for the morning were two: First, to the bath and second, confession.

There was already quite a long line even though the sun was just started breathing. I took the left one to the men's line. The direction to the Baths (Piscine) was clear and the volunteers were very competent and friendly, some spoke English but mostly French. So if you have questions and couldn't found any volunteer to help, you could try to identify some tour leaders instead. As the line was getting closer to the bathing facility, my heart pounded. I was filled with anxiety: What should I do? What is the procedure? Should I take off all the clothes or just leave the underwear intact? Is it private? Asian culture is mostly about humility and shyness, very sensitive with showing private parts, so should I be ashamed once inside?

Finally, it was my turn to enter the bathing facility (they will call roll for 5-6 persons each time). And... there was a line again inside, waiting for your turn to enter the bathing cell. In the mean time, we were asked to strip off, leaving only the underpants. Inside the facility, there were numerous bathing cells, pretty much like a dorm shower. So after stripping the clothes, I just sat there until a volunteer assigned to a specific cell. Surprise, surprise, inside the cell there was another line again! (Duh! In total, triple layers of lines!)

Another volunteer(s) would make a round call, escorted you behind the shower, facing you towards the wall, and waiting on your back with the towel open; after you took off the underpants, they would cover your lower half. Then, two men guided you into the piscine and you are required to kneel (if you could do so; otherwise you may sit). Then, you are asked to look at a Marian statue on the wall, pray privately, and they whispered "Trust our Mother". When you're ready, you crossed your arms on the chest and they would take your back and hands, immersed you for a few seconds, and you're done!

Warning: The water was directly streamed from the spring where the miracle happened, so it was freezing cold!!! If you have asthma, please consider for your convenience (or may be you could trust and pray for a miracle to cure it). Also, the water is regularly replaced (not after every person, tho), so...judge yourself at the hygiene :)

The express bathing experience was refreshing for both spiritually and physically. I somehow was filled with gratitude. But the rite of cleaning would not be complete without going through the true spiritual cleansing: confession! So, I walked towards the pastoral office(?) next to the main basilica. Good news, there was no line (yet) but bad news, the priest in "English" cubicle was not yet on duty. The confessional consisted on few cubicles (more like, offices tbh), each with the name of the priest and the language they provided: Spanish, English, French, Korean, Tagalog, and some others. The waiting room has this altar so you can pray or examining your conscience before going with the deal.

Like any person with anxiety, I googled the priest's name. He was Canadian of Irish descendant. When he arrived, he gave me signal to follow him into the cell. It was a very comfortable one. There was the desk, a kneeler, and chairs at both sides of the table. I chose the kneeler.

He was very much attentive (and while I expected his eyes to jolt at my sins, he gave normal looks, as if they were just... meh). We had beautiful discussion about my faith. He spent much of the time digging into my conversion story then gave helpful suggestions for my spiritual training. After all, I didn't proceed with proper cathecumenate, so it would be better if I could find a suitable confessor or spiritual teacher, at least he thought so.

***

I spent much of the noon walking around the complex and took some photographs.

The first destination was of course the iconic Basilique Notre-Dame du Rosaire or The Lower Basilica. What make it special were the depictions of Mother Mary, saints, and the 3 mysteries of the rosary, all made of mozaics! The rotunda and ceilings are not to be missed. Here, I would suggest spending much time praying and adorning the beautiful mozaics and be ready to be awed by the glittering gold tiles, as if you are inside the scene yourself!

Right above the basilica is the older basilica, Basilique d'Immaculee Conception (and the Crypt). Its Neo-gothic style really complements to the surrounding, especially the lower more modern basilica and the saint stairs shaped like an arc, which gave a Disney-like impression. I didn't spend much time inside the upper basilica because there were masses said, but I couldn't see anything particularly special about the architecture except for the adornments and ex-votos on the walls; apart from these, they look so typical Neo-gothic churches. But the crypt under the main basilica is definitely a must-go. There you could light a candle and pray in peace surrounded by shimmering candle lights! Keep in mind, the crypt is a quite and no-photography spot, so behave yourself! From the balcony, you could throw a view across the Lourdes landscape and be prepare to be fascinated by it! Below, there were pilgrims from many nationalities taking group pictures at the facade, priests and concelebrants lining up towards the Grotto to say mass, and if you stick to the schedule, you could also participate in the eucharistic procession.

If you walked into the basilica complex from the main gate, turn your gaze to your left side. There was an underground megastructure, quite unnoticable from the surface. If you took the stairs, you would find a MASSIVE communion space with very brutalistic architecture. This is the Basilique souterraine Saint-Pie X. As a big fanatic of brutalistic structures, this basilica hold a special place in my heart. What took my breathe away was the big banners of saints all at the inner part of the hall, while on the outer wall was adorned with variousartworks, paintings, reliquaries, mozaics, quotes, poems, and prayers all across nationalities, cultures, and languages! At the center of the main hall was the high altar, with rows of pews facing into it from all directions. Forget about the traditional ad orientem altar!

Click here to continue reading the Part 2.

Map of Lourdes Sanctuary (taken from here):