MUCEM Marseille: Bridging the old the and new

(This article is written long time after the visit on May 2019)

It was a one-day stop before Nice. After quite a deliberation choosing Avignon, Montpellier or Marseille, I picked on the latter one. And it turned out to be an impeccable choice! My first impression out of the train station was not a good one, "Monuments and leisure? Pfft." I was completely wrong.

After checking into the most unrecommended hostel throughout Marseille (I learned it last minute inside the train from Lourdes), I walked to the 2nd arrondissement, a Mediterranean-style district by the sea where the iconic Cathedral La Majore is at. It was my only place-to-stop before taking the little train trip to the Basilique Notre-dame de la Garde uphill.

Well, my pressumption turned out to be wrong. Marseille offered a splendid view on summer! The port, a mixture of high-end Mediterranean view with modern blending soon became the spot where I put a piece of my heart in. Some travel website recommended to visit the MUCEM (Museum of Civilizations of Europe and the Mediterranean). I was reluctant, because I thought I've had enough historical-ethnographic museum to see on this trip. But when I arrived at the spot and witnessing the palacial architecture, my heart screamed loudly.

After spending almost two hours at the bay, bathing in the warm sand-coloured platform with seemingly never-ending sunlight, I entered the museum and purchased the ticket. Here comes the problem. Although being equipped with the plan map, I couldn't find the entrance! I kept running up- and downstairs finding the free exhibition (yes, they host temporary art exhibitions with separate ticket price). After wasting around 30 minutes, I finally found the entrance (ironically, through the backdoor when a group of tourist exit). Geez, I felt so idiotic but at the same time felt irritated, since no direction marks were provided and the complicated interior just added up the complexity.

The free/permanent? exhibition "Connectivities" covers the history of Marseille as a city-port, from the time it was first occupied by the Greece colony, prospered during Roman period to this day it become as such. In the 18th century, Marseille became a point of slave trade. No wonder that two monuments outside the main train station symbolize the "diversity" of the city, even though we know that this narrative is just the euphemism of "prospered by the slaves" as throughout the city, you can still find the legacy of alloyed cultures and its difference looks from another France cities.

Along with the histirocal section which was nicely arranged according to the timeline, it also shows connection between other major trading/port cities, like Seville, Casablanca, Lisbon and Istanbul. Artefacts of mixing culture become the highlight, as shown by the huge ceramic cross with islamic (oriental?) decorations from Coimbra, Spain. Apart from the artefacts were Roman busts, Rennaissance-style painting of the French royals, religious relics and decors, the remnant of wars, maquettes, ship replicas, as well as modern-style paintings of reinterpreting the modern day Marseille.

As far as our sight touches, the exhibition was meant to demonstrate Marseille as a melting pot of various culture which shaped the unique present-day population compared to other French cities. And it is successful in doing so. The variety of the objects resembled its true cultural and wealth richness. Many objects highlighting the relationship between Christian and Ottoman kingdoms--most likely intended to--perpetuate the good relationship of its contemporary community. Together with the objects with other port cities origin, the exhibition strongly pointed Marseille as the actor in the construction of empires, civilization and modernization. The exhibition flow is mostly linear, occassionally with two periods or prominent momentum appear to be habitating the same niche, as if it was saying that the transition of the time is not distinctive, but blending or evolving accordingly. Apart from the traditional pieces, also shown here are the interactive digital urban maps of Cairo, Marseille, Casablanca and Cairo by the students of ENSA-Marseille, which is intriguing to interact with. The most eye-catching contemporary artwork in the room is the installation of a balanced mechanism with pieces of shipwreck on the sides, resembling the famous work of Alexander Calder (unfortunately, I missed to shot the label, thus I am not able to check for the complete information).

The most astounding aspect I keen on highlighting and praise for is the experience while exploring the brilliant architecture. Designed by the French architect, Rudy Ricciotti, the building is located next to the port, facing the massive clear blue Mediterranean sea. It consists of two complex, the modern museum (opened in 2013) and its counterpart, the historical Fort Saint-Jean (built in 1660), connected by a long run of concrete footbridge on the roof of both construction.

The modern building is surrounded by fibre-constructed concrete lattice which covers its three sides. The pattern is water-like, so much so resembling the dynamic wave surface hitting the harbour wall nearby. The exit of the museum is through the rooftop, so the visitors are encouraged to climb the stairs, parading up the outer alley encircling the building, before taking another set of stairs again. In the alley, you will be bathed with the shadow of the pattern onto the skin and together with the surge of color mixture of blue, dark gray and reflected sunlight, you will feel trapped yet calming at the same time, as if you're walking under the clear blue ocean you can breath in. On the rooftop is a restaurant and cafe with a panoramic view of Marseille. When walking towards the bridge, you will be seeing the Cathedral at the far side, standing tall 'beneath' the roof of MUCEM, as if it floats above the water. It somehow suggests the notion "the modern supports the tradition". Take your time to appreciate this intellectual of design!

On the other side on the rooftop of Fort Saint-Jean is the Garden of Migration, designed by Roland Carta. It encompasses a botanical garden with several rooms resembling Mediterranean habitation district. The rooms also host various exhibition and cafe. Its labyrinth-like construction is full of surprise. One time you will find a garden, another time sunbathing places. You won't feel like being in a building at all, but rather a housing complex on a hill. Walking outside the fort down the stairs, you will find a colourful pole with MUCEM stickers all over the place. If you're willing to participate in this--I bet spontaneous--public artwork, feel free to place the sticker you receive from the ticket desk and be part of the art and history! We surely need more public participatory art like this (it reminds me to Yayoi Kusama's Obliteration Room).

MUCEM+Fort Saint-Jean is one of few times when I feel completely immersed, synthesized and integrated into the contemporacy, architecture, perception and memories. if you happen to be in the leisure but restless city of Marseille, pay it a visit! The museum experience is so much worthwhile!